View Full Version : In your opinions - the best food for a Cavalier

The Rouge Princess
16th November 2010, 11:54 AM

Sorry I've not really posted in a while.I think this is partly due to that most of the things I think of posting, have already been done.I like that this is such a welcoming and informative site,I love Cavaliertalk! :)

I was wondering if anyone would care to share their opinions on which is the best food to feed a Cavalier.I understand individual Cavaliers will differ from the benefits, from others.But in your opinions, what food do Cavaliers thrive on the most, please? I'd like to feed her a good, wholesome food, with nutritional benefits and at a handy price.Despite what food I do give Scarlett, she always gets her veggies (daily), Cod Liver Oil tablet (daily), Weetabix, natural yogurt etc as and when.

We have - and have been successful on the following foods -JWB - good but can be pricey, Chappie Original (tinned) - good, poos quite soft and Wainwrights - good firm poos, seems to enjoy the Duck & Rice and L&R flavours, looks and smells suspiciously like JWB though.......:rolleyes:

Thinking of - finally - going for a large bag of food to see us over to the New Year.Eeeeek, already eh?

Hope you all and your Cavaliers are well :luv:

Brian M
16th November 2010, 01:01 PM

After trying all of the "best" kibble IE Royal Canin ,Burns ,JWB etc I have settled on raw food prepared by myself and include all and more of the extras that you mention .Have also tried the prepared raw foods from Darlings and Natural Instinct and rate them very high but I still enjoy preparing the girls raw foods with all their additives such as veggies (incl a daily sprout ),yumega plus oil ,Pooch and Mutt etc.All meat is bought from our local butchers and frozen for a minimum of three weeks before given .Their last four meals consisted of lamb chops with any excess fat trimmed off then prior to that they had chicken wings as their meat source for a week with beef mince and breast of lamb as other meat based choices .They have been fed this diet for about six months and they all seem to thrive on it ,they all had an upset tummy recently but possibly may have picked something up out on walkies but am not sure though I am fuss pot regarding food hygiene as handling raw meat is so easy to pass around an infection .
This seems to work for me as I enjoy the preparing it all and the girls seem to love eating it but I honestly would never have dreamt I would be feeding chicken wings to them not so long ago. :D

16th November 2010, 03:57 PM
I like JWB which is pretty modest in price as far as good foods go. It is simple, has good ingredients, and a variety of flavours for change. :) Chappie is pretty crap in terms of ingredients but for some reason seems to suit some dogs especially those with sensitive stomachs -- but a soft food should never be the basis for a diet.

Brian just to note as this is a frequent misconception unfortunately widely spread around the internet: a home freezer will NOT kill off anything truly harmful in raw meat before feeding to dogs, so it makes no difference whatever how long you stick it in the freezer -- a day, a week or three months. It isn't cold enough. You'd need time in a commercial grade or research department grade deep freeze.

16th November 2010, 05:18 PM
I use JWB plus veggies, sardines, cooked chicken etc...
Both of mine do well on this, before I changed Barney used to have bouts of upset tummy...I think he was sensitive to some ingredient in the old food.

Their coats are fab and they have plenty of energy. I'd like Cassie to fill out a little but she is only 9 months so plenty of time for that.

Never tried raw food but I know a friend who tried to introduce the BARF (? think that's right!!) diet slowly and had upset tummies all round.

Karlin is right Brian, freezing food only makes bacteria dormant, once defrosted they become active again. Cooking above 75 degrees at core temperature for at least two mins will kill off most bacteria :))

I suppose correct storage, chilling and freezing will minimise bacteria growth :))

Each to their own I suppose, what works for one may not work for another.

Chappy tinned food - I know one Cav with tummy issues who has this, it's the only food he tolerates apparently....not the best for most I doubt

Teresa :))

16th November 2010, 05:30 PM
Hi I live in the US so there are some brands that you mentioned that I do not see in the pet stores here.
I have had luck with feeding Jack a mix of Wellness Core and Orijen dry food mixed with a tablespoon of Wellness Core wet food, along with wild salmon oil. I also give him a tablespoon of plain yogurt every night. Fresh veggies (mainly carrots) are fed several times a week as snacks. This is working for him so far, his poops are good and everyone always comments how soft and rich his fur looks:D

17th November 2010, 04:11 AM
Blondie simply wont eat dogfood. I tried about 20 brands. For a while she did good on EVO (INNOVA). Its very healthy and almost pure protein with no fillers. There is a dogfood review website which is very helpful as well if u like. dogfoodanalysis.com i believe.
Since I give her "human" food she is doing much ,much better,
She gets tilapia, rice and carrots in the morning with supplements and fishoil. and chicken rice and peas or sprouts at night. no issues anymore with hungerstrikes and diarrea... It works best for us.

17th November 2010, 09:05 AM
I've been very happy with Solid Gold brand. No upset tummies in a long time, and it tastes amazing according to Guinness.

17th November 2010, 11:11 AM
Tommy was doing really well on Markus Muehle - which was the best kibble I've been able to find.


It is cold pressed so retains more nutrients. Beate will send you some samples and information.

Unfortunately the girls just will not eat dried food, so after a considerable amount of research, we ended up on home prepared - and are now able to get deliveries of raw [which is industrially frozen]. They are doing really well on this and the girls finally reached their correct weights [Kayleigh was 1 kg underweight :( ] - I like my dogs slim, but not that slim!

Orijen seems to give many Cavaliers diarrhoea - something in it. Chappie is very poor quality ingredients - very high cereal content.

James Wellbeloved is very good, also Burns. JWB looks expensive but isn't when you actually feed how much they need rather than the packet instructions!! I usually aim for 10g per kg and see how they do.

Fish4dogs and Arden Grange are also very good.

Royal Canin used to be good but have changed their ingredients and there is now more cereal in it - I also don't like the preservatives, at least one of which is suspected to be a possible cause of cancer by some authorities. :mad:

Bakers is sadly not a good food, high in colourings and the different shapes are designed to appeal to people rather than the dogs - I'd rather they spent the money on better quality ingredients :o They have very good marketing though!!

17th November 2010, 11:12 AM
You can actually grade a dog food - there are various versions around but I have used this one a few times

here is the scoring mechanism to rate the food you are feeding {although originating in the US, it applies to UK producers too}:

You will need your kibble’s list of ingredients, as found on the label (or sometimes reproduced on their website). This is intended to help you evaluate the ingredients, but the food has to be appropriate for your dog. If your dog is allergic to an ingredient, or doesn’t like the taste, then it doesn’t matter how good the kibble is – it isn’t appropriate for your dog. Whatever you pick must also be appropriate for your dog’s breed, life stage, and lifestyle, so check the guaranteed analysis, first.

You have a right to expect good ingredients, so start with a grade of 100.

17th November 2010, 11:13 AM
Things that detract from your kibble:

If there are no specific meats or meat meals, subtract 25 points.Why: Meat protein is the most important part of a canine diet. A dog’s digestive tract is designed to process mostly meat and fat. You want to see a specified meat meal as the first ingredient, or a specified meat, first, followed by a specified meal (doesn’t have to be the same meat) among the main ingredients. If there are no specific meats or meat meals, the manufacturer either doesn’t know or doesn’t want the consumer to know what is in the food.

For every listing of "digest", subtract 15 points.
Why: Digest is a reduced broth of specified or unspecified parts of specified or unspecified animals broken down by chemical or enzymatic hydrolysis. The source is unknown and could include any kind of animal protein – 4-D, roadkill, euthanized animals, supermarket and restaurant refuse, and according to eyewitnesses sometimes includes leather collars. Not something you would probably freely choose to feed your dog.

For every generic meat or meal that does not indicate a species (meat, meat meal, meat byproducts, meat byproduct meal, meat and bone meal, fish, fish meal, poultry, poultry meal, poultry byproducts, poultry byproduct meal, liver, liver meal, glandular meal, blood meal, etc.), subtract 10 points.
Why: Generic products are an unknown quantity. You don’t know what they are made of, or where they came from. Further, the AAFCO definitions of some of the ingredients are not what the consumer would intuitively expect. For instance, “poultry” isn’t just chicken and turkey, but is any kind of fowl, including, potentially, euthanized pet exotic birds, or even roadkill. Not necessarily, but the problem is, you don’t know and have no way of telling, and the worst offenders do include the worst ingredients in their products. The AAFCO definitions are only available to the public by purchasing the AAFCO official document at over $50 per copy. That should also tell you something.

For every specific meat byproduct meal (beef/lamb/turkey/chicken byproduct meal, beef and bone meal, pork and bone meal, etc.), subtract 5 points.
Why: Although byproduct meals can include quality protein sources and nutrients, byproducts, by definition, are the things left over after everything useful has been removed – only if it can’t be sold at a higher price is it relegated to the byproduct bin. Specific byproduct meals are not as bad as generic byproduct meals, because, at least, you know what kind of animal was used, but a manufacturer that relies on byproducts as an ingredient is putting ingredients of marginal nutritional value into the food, and that is less than optimal. If you were feeding your dog whole animals, it would get some of this stuff, but you wouldn’t make a steady diet of just the dried and ground byproducts.

For every specific fresh meat byproduct (not meal, listed as beef/lamb/turkey/chicken byproduct, etc.) appearing as a main ingredient, before the first listed fat, subtract 5 points.
Why: Fresh meat byproducts lose 50-75% of their weight in processing, so they do not comprise as much of the product as they might appear. A little fresh meat byproduct included as something less than a main ingredient may add a little flavor and nutritional value, and is acceptable. Again, a product that relies on byproducts as a main ingredient is relying on an ingredient of marginal value.

For every grain "mill run" (e.g., wheat mill run, or rice mill byproducts), grain middlings (e.g., wheat mids or wheat middlings), or generic grain source (cereal food fines, grain fermentation solubles, maltodextrines and fermentation solubles, etc.), subtract 10 points.
Why: Mill runs, middlings or mill byproducts are also referred to as “floor sweepings”, and whether or not they really are floor sweepings, they are of marginal value, and sold as a way for the mill to reduce its losses in processing. Generics are, again, unknowns, and often whatever is left after processing – after most of the nutritional value has been removed for other products.

If two or more fractions of the same grain (i.e., "ground brown rice", "rice hulls", "rice flour" are all fractions of the same grain, but "brown rice, white rice" would not be fractions) appear as main ingredients, before the first listed fat, subtract 5 points.
Why: Fractioning is an AAFCO-sanctioned practice of breaking a grain down into its constituent parts so that, when listed by weight, it doesn’t appear as high on the ingredient list. That is, fractioning is a practice designed to mislead the consumer under the guise of full disclosure. A manufacturer who does this is misleading its consumers for a reason – they don’t want the casual consumer to realize how much of the product is made up of that ingredient.

If ground corn or whole grain corn and one or more corn fraction (e.g., "corn germ meal", "corn gluten meal") appear as main ingredients, before the first listed fat, or if corn in any form is listed as the first ingredient, subtract 5 points.Why: Corn is a misunderstood product. Its carbohydrates are highly digestible. It’s proteins less so, and its cellulose least digestible. Less scrupulous manufacturers use corn and corn fractions as main ingredients to boost the crude protein of the product, but that protein is not particularly digestible for a dog. So, it passes through as waste. Avoid foods where corn is the first product by weight. Avoid foods where the protein is being boosted by less-digestible ingredients. A note on corn as an allergen: anything can be an allergen, potentially. It only becomes an issue if your dog is actually allergic to it. The fact that corn is sometimes an allergen is not a reason to avoid it, if your dog is not allergic to corn.

If the food contains brewer’s rice or feeding oat meal, subtract 3 points.
Why: While these are generally not floor sweepings, manufacturers who use these products are not being cleverly frugal – they are being cheap. These are lower-quality grains available at low cost, but the manufacturers try very hard to make them out to be quality ingredients. Better quality grains are available.

If the food contains corn gluten, corn gluten meal, wheat gluten, wheat gluten meal, soy or soybean meal as a main ingredient, subtract 2 points.
Why: these are less-digestible binders and sources of protein that pass through a dog’s system mostly unused. Many dogs do not tolerate soy products well. Toxic and potentially lethal adulterants have been discovered in some sources of these gluten meals.

For every generic fat (animal fat, poultry fat, fish oil, vegetable oil), beef tallow/fat or lard/pork fat, or mineral oil, subtract 10 points.
Why: Generic fats are unknown quantities. Beef and pork fat are tasty to a dog, but much lower in quality and nutritional value than chicken fat.

If the food contains corn bran, peanut hulls, rice hulls, soybean hulls, oat hulls, cellulose, or corn cellulose, subtract 5 points.Why: This is undigestible fiber and sawdust. What you want to feed your dog is digestible fiber.

If the food contains carbohydrate fractions like "potato product", or grain flours, subtract 2 points.Why: Potato peelings and grain dust may not be actively bad, but they aren’t good ingredients, either.

17th November 2010, 11:14 AM
If the food contains any of the following preservatives (BHA - butylated hydroxyanisole, BHT - butylated hydroxytoluene, TBHQ - tertiary butylhydroquinone, ethoxyquin, or sodium metabisulfite), subtract 15 points.Why: These products are known to accumulate and cause cancer and other illnesses. It doesn’t matter how much or little is required to do this. There are natural, beneficial, non-toxic alternatives available, like tocopherols and herbal extracts.

If the food contains added sweeteners like cane molasses (not blackstrap molasses), corn syrup in any form, sugar, glucose, fructose, sucrose, sorbitol, ammoniated glycyrrhizin, propylene glycol, subtract 10 points.Why: Dogs, like humans, like the taste of sugar. Processed sugar is as bad for dogs as it is for humans. Aside from damaging the teeth, most sugars are empty calories with little or no nutritional value.

If the food contains any form of menadione (menadione sodium bisulfate, menadione sodium bisulfate complex, menadione sodium bisulfite, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, menadione dimethyl-pyrimidinol bisulfate, menadione dimethyl-pyrimidinol bisulfite, artifical vitamin K3, vitamin K supplement), subtract 10 points.Why: Natural vitamin K is normally produced in a dog’s intestinal tract. A supplement isn’t needed if a dog is getting a complete, nutritionally-balanced diet, because the dog makes its own. Menadione interferes with the natural production of vitamin K, and has been proven to be toxic to the liver and kidneys, and is not approved for long-term use in food. However, testing of this ingredient remains incomplete, and until a final determination is made, manufacturers are allowed to continue using it. Why they would, given what is known or suspected about the ingredient, should be a cause for concern.

If the food contains Blue 2, Red 40, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, or other numbered dyes, subtract 5 points.
Why: Dyes are unnecessary, sometimes toxic, sometimes carcinogenic, and the colors aren’t there for the dogs, but to make the food more appealing to the people who buy it, so they will feel better about serving that food to their dogs.

If the food contains onion, subtract 5 points.
Why: Onions cause Heinz body anemia, a hemolytic anemia. Even if they like the taste, this isn’t good for dogs.

If the food contains any of the following additives (propyl gallate, gallic acid, propyl ester, glyceryl monostearate), subtract 5 points.
Why: Anti-oxidants, emulsifiers, and anti-caking agents, known to be toxic when ingested in quantity. Natural, non-toxic alternatives are available.

If the food contains salt, sea salt, or sodium chloride as more than a trace ingredient, subtract 3 points.Why: Excess sodium is as bad for dogs as it is for humans. Salt enhances the flavor of foods for dogs, just as it does for humans. Reducing added sodium in the diet is better for your dog.

If the food contains apple pomace, grape pomace, or citrus pulp, subtract 2 points.
Why: Pomace is the pulp left after squeezing everything useful out of apples, grapes or citrus. It is mostly undigestible cellulose and of little nutritional value.

If the food contains generic flavorings (artifical flavoring, natural flavoring), or flavoring ingredients of unknown origin (like "meat broth" or “poultry flavor”), subtract 1 point.Why: Manufacturers list generic ingredients when they don’t know, or don’t want to say, what the ingredient contains or where it came from. The word “natural” has no definition in labeling terms, and so does not necessarily mean what the average reader thinks it means. It is better to know where the flavors come from.

If the food contains poorly-utilized sulfate- or oxide-based mineral supplements (e.g., zinc oxide, iron oxide, magnesium sulfate), subtract 1 point.
Why: Although mineral oxides and sulfates are commonly used, chelates and proteinates are better utilized by a dog, Chelates and proteinates are only fractionally more expensive than oxides and sulfates in quantity, so using the less expensive, less useful ingredients is a point against the product.

If the food contains artificial vitamin E (di-alpha tocopherol acetate), subtract 1 point.
Why: Artifical vitamin E is not readily used by the body, and about half as effective as natural vitamin E. Better utilized natural sources are readily available.

Things that distract from your kibble:

If the food contains sugar beet pulp, subtract no points.
Why: Contrary to common opinion, sugar beet pulp is not a significant source of digestible sugar, being what remains after most of the usable sugar has been removed. It turns out to be a high-quality source of digestible fiber that is important to beneficial bacteria in a dog’s intestinal tract. The presence of sugar beet pulp should not count against a dog food.

For every occurrence of the word "natural", add no points.
Why: In terms of labeling, the word “natural” has no defined meaning on a pet food label. Its use is purely to influence the consumer’s perception of quality, without actually meaning anything.

For every occurrence of the word “holistic”, add no points.
Why: See “natural”. The word “holistic” has no defined meaning on a pet food label. Its use is purely to influence the consumer’s perception of quality, without actually meaning anything.

If the food contains fruit or vegetables, add no points.
Why: Fruits and vegetables are ok, as ingredients in a dry dog food, but not necessary for a dog’s nutritional needs. Their presence in a dry dog food doesn’t hurt anything, but they don’t add much, either.

Things that improve your kibble:

If the food contains one or more specifically named fresh meats (chicken, lamb, pork, beef, turkey, duck, salmon, etc.), in combination with one or more specifically named dry meat meals (chicken meal, lamb meal, pork meal, beef meal, turkey meal, duck meal, salmon meal, etc.) as main ingredients (appearing before the first listed fat), add 1 point.Why: a food that has this combination of meat and meat meal as main ingredients is likely to have higher-quality, highly digestible meat protein as the principal source of protein in the food, and that is better and more useful for your dog.

If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 1 point.
Why: Meats free of added hormones and antibiotics are better for your dog.

If the animal sources are certified organic, add 1 point.
Why: While “natural” has no meaning “certified organic” does. A manufacturer that uses certified organic ingredients is actively taking steps to use ingredients that are healthier for your dog.

If the food contains whole ground grains, starches and legumes (rice, oats, barley, millet, potato, sweet potato, peas, etc.), add 1 point.
Why: Whole grains, starches and legumes contain more useful nutrition than fractions and flours.

If the grains are certified organic, add 1 point.
Why: While “natural” has no meaning “certified organic” does. A manufacturer that uses certified organic ingredients is actively taking steps to use ingredients that are healthier for your dog.

If the fats and oils are specifically named (chicken fat, canola oil, flax oil, herring oil, etc.), add 1 point.
Why: It is better to know what kind of fat is being used.

If the food contains high percentages of Omega6 (at least 2.2%) and Omega3 fatty acids, and a low ratio between the two (5:1 to 7:1 or lower), add 1 point.
Why: Omega Fatty Acids (OFA’s) are important anti-oxidants for the body, and help combat the effects of aging. Studies indicate that they are best utilized when they are in a specific proportion of 5-7 times as much Omega6 as there is Omega3.

If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point.
Why: Pesticide-free vegetables are better for your dog.

If the vegetables are certified organic, add 1 point.
Why: While “natural” has no meaning “certified organic” does. A manufacturer that uses certified organic ingredients is actively taking steps to use ingredients that are healthier for your dog.

If the food contains specifically-named broths or stocks (chicken broth, beef stock, etc.), or liver of specified animals (chicken liver, beef liver, etc.), add 1 point.
Why: Knowing where these ingredients come from is better than not knowing, and they are almost always of higher quality than their generic counterparts.

If the vitamin and mineral sources are chelated or proteinates, add 1 point.
Why: Chelates and proteinates are better utilized minerals and indicate an effort to provide a food with greater nutritional value.

If the food is preserved with mixed tocopherols, rosemary-, sage- or clove extracts, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin C, add 1 point.
Why: Natural preservatives are non-toxic and nutritionally useful.

If the food contains non-acidic, time released versions of Vitamin C (such as Ester C, Calcium Ascorbate, Stabilized Vitamin C or L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate), natural Vitamin E (Tocopherol, Natural Tocopherol), natural sources of Vitamin K (egg yolk, liver, oats, kelp, alfalfa), add 1 point.
Why: These are better utilized forms of these nutrients, and indicate an effort to provide a food with greater nutritional value.

If the food contains therapeutic levels of glucosamine and chondroitin, or MSM, add 1 point.
Why: Many foods now include glucosamine and chondroitin, but their presence is not meaningful if the amounts are insufficient to have the desired effect. Their presence doesn’t hurt anything, but they need to be present in therapeutic levels in order to be a plus. Consult a veterinary nutritionist or veterinarian to determine the therapeutic dose for your dog.

If the food contains probiotics (various strains of bacillus, lactobacillus, bifidobacteria, streptococcus and enterococcus) and/or prebiotics (e.g., sugar beet pulp and chickory root extract), add 1 point.
Why: Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that colonize the gut and improve the digestion of nutrients, inhibiting the growth of pathogenic bacteria, and are vital to a dog’s immune system. Prebiotics serve as the nutritional media for probiotics, and contain complex sugars not broken down by the regular digestive process. Prebiotics are key to maintaining healthy levels of probiotics in the gut. Active cultures in yogurt are often misidentified as probiotics, but while they aid in the digestion of dairy products, they do not survive long in the intestinal tract, and their benefit is different from true probiotics.

Grading Scale
(Any score below zero can become zero.)

>92 = Highly Recommended
86-92 = Recommended
78-85 = Acceptable
70-77 = Marginal
<70 = Not Recommended

I think Bakers and Tescos dog food comes out at -100 whereas Arden Grange is about +90 or something

Sorry had to split this as it was too long to post in one go!!

Brian M
17th November 2010, 11:30 AM

Thanks I shall print that out and give it to one of our site agents who has two GSD and
feeds them Bakers .:(

17th November 2010, 12:35 PM
Oh no :( poor dogs...

GSDs do really well on the Markus Muehle - if you read the site you will see that's how Beate started selling it!!

There is even a wolf pack in Spain being fed on it!!

17th November 2010, 02:38 PM
I have done a (very) rough tot of James Wellbeloved Lamb and Rice - taking the info from their website as I don't keep the bag, and it has come out at over 100 which I am very pleased with. It lost points for Sodium Chloride only.
I am always singing it's praises as it works really well in our household - poop wise :grnyuk: it's easy to buy and it's not too dear either.

17th November 2010, 03:33 PM
Well, I live in the US some many of our brands are not available in the UK. At the pet supply store I work for, we sell only hollistic foods that only source their ingredients from either the US or canada and we do not carry anything that contains corn, by products, etc. Personally I am a big fan of raw and homemade diets, all my animals get the raw, as they seem to do best on it. As far as kibble goes, some of the best ones we carry are Orijen, Natural Balance, Fromm, Solid Gold, Wellness, Taste of the Wild, Go Natural, Merrick and the dehydrated foods have really taken off (like Grandma Lucy's and The Honest Kitchen). We are big fans of "The Whole Dog Journal" and look forward to their yearly February issue for their top foods of the year picks. They look at full disclosure (the companies must list where they source their ingredients), recall history, ingredient list, etc. It's really helpful to us and our customers.

Brian M
17th November 2010, 04:23 PM
Hi Erin

Thanks for your post and really informative reply I will have a look at The Whole Dog Journal .

18th November 2010, 10:33 AM
Nicki, you have got me really worried now, I fed little Ollie on Royal Canin Junior 33, and was going to keep him on it until at least he was 10 months old, as that is when he would go onto the adult version. The only reason I chose Royal Canin is that his breeder recommended it. Do you know which ingredient is known to cause cancer. May well change to JWB. I know nothing about dried kibble as Jasper would`nt eat it. but Ollie on the other hand would eat anything he was given provided it did`nt upset his tummy.

18th November 2010, 11:05 AM
Sorry I don't mean to scare people but do think we need to be aware of what is in our companions food...

It's the preservatives that concern me

the following preservatives (BHA - butylated hydroxyanisole, BHT - butylated hydroxytoluene, TBHQ - tertiary butylhydroquinone, ethoxyquin, or sodium metabisulfite),

Last time I checked, Royal Canin still contained BHA, BHT and ethoxyquin :(:( They never bothered to reply last time I wrote to them about it...so much for their caring attitude!

18th November 2010, 11:26 AM
Thanks for that Nicki, just checked the bag of Royal Canin Junior 33 and it does contain BHA, so much for me thinking that Royal Canin was one of the better foods.:( Out to look for new dried food this weekend I think.

18th November 2010, 01:36 PM
Thanks for that Nicki, just checked the bag of Royal Canin Junior 33 and it does contain BHA, so much for me thinking that Royal Canin was one of the better foods.:( Out to look for new dried food this weekend I think.

have you tried arden grange here is the ingredients in the "light" version

Whole Grain Rice (min 31%), Whole Grain Maize (min 31%), Chicken Meal*, Beet Pulp, Chicken Fat*, Fresh Chicken (min 5%), Dried Brewers Yeast, Egg Powder, Fish Meal*, Linseed, Fish Oil*, Minerals, Vitamins, Nucleotides, Prebiotic FOS, Prebiotic MOS, Cranberry Extract, Chondroitin Sulphate, Glucosamine Sulphate, MSM, Yucca Extract, L- Carnitine. * Preserved with mixed tocopherols and rosemary extract.

18th November 2010, 02:06 PM
Now it looks like I will be looking for different kibble for Ollie who is 6 and a half months old, can anyone tell me how big the JWB or similar is in size of kibble. Royal Canin is nice and small and ideal for small breed dogs. I need to get this right as I don`t want to be changing him from one food to another all the time, unless of course it upsets him.

18th November 2010, 04:02 PM
JWB puppy has little pieces, they do vary slightly by flavour. I think Junior is quite a big jump up in size so will be sticking to puppy for a while yet...Hope that helps :))

The Rouge Princess
21st November 2010, 07:50 PM
Thank you for all the helpful replies and especially to Karlin and Nikki for their continuing advice.I did some small research into dog food at A level and learned of some awful things.Yet I wasn't aware of half of what was said your posts Nikki :(

I mentioned Chappie as Scarlett has always enjoyed a few spoonfuls mixed with dry kibble.She has only had it three times ever, it's not a regular food.

Common sense it telling me to stick with Wainrights - she's just finished a 2 kg bag of this.I really shouldn't really mess around with different foods either, as I know this can be no good for their tummies.She liked it and the poops were firm and looking at the ingredients and the smell and texture, it's seems a close competitor for JWB, imo.I must admit, JWB isn't that expensive but a 15Kg bag of Wainwrights Turkey & Rice works out about £15 cheaper.But this is not solely based on price, mind.My aim was to find a good, all around-middle-of-the road food.It has some great reviews on different sites, I must say.

Also, Nikki, with regards to how much to feed,I know the companies are so cheeky in suggesting more is needed in order to push more sales.That's the answer for pet obesity imo :(

Scarlett weighs 14lbs and is fed 50g kibble, moistened, twice a day and has carrots, broccoli and cabbage 4 times a week in her evening meal.She may also a few carrot sticks and a rice cake at around 3pm.On the days she has the carrot sticks and rice cake, she just has moistened kibble on an evening.Occasionally,she'll have a toast crust on a morning, saved for her by my husband :rolleyes:

I worry about her putting weight on with being a Cavalier and all :(

Thank you