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Loose Lead Walking Training at DTI
- Thread starter TKC
- Start date
That is Jaspar's FAVOURITE ROOM in the WHOLE WIDE WORLD. :lol: Not only are there often forgotten training treats scattered around the floor for him to find, but also the agility equipment is kept there.
I don't know the handler or dog though -- must be one of DTI's latest classes. I like how that little dog is very focused and checking in with the handler.
I don't know the handler or dog though -- must be one of DTI's latest classes. I like how that little dog is very focused and checking in with the handler.
Caraline
Well-known member
:lol: Beau is a specialist at finding abandoned training treats at class too, but he has to work at finding them because we work on grass. I swear he thinks he is a scent hound sometimes.
TKC
Well-known member
It is the method used in this book. A great little book. We hand it out for the HEELWORK course - yes we have a whole course on teaching your dog to walk on a lead.
Again you get th behaviour of Loose Lead, mark it with a reward (food treat). Stop for any pull on the lead turning into the hand holding the lead. When the dog CHOOSES to be with you on a loose lead and checks in you reward.
So there is no verbal cue. The cue for the dog to correct ITSELF is the feeling of pressure on collar or harness. It means that you are not pulling your dog into a heel position. The dog is working with you and for you. The dog is HAPPY to walk on a loose lead as the reinforcers are forward movement (the walk) and when learning the food treats (marking the correct position). Also there is little to none luring with food.
Initially you want to teach the dog that the pull means no forward movement so we have a little game.
Hold the dog on the lead.
Throw a piece of food out.
The dog pulls.
Hold but do not pull the dog back.
After a few secs the dog will release on the lead (loose lead) at which point you move forward and the treat + forward movement becomes available ONLY ON LOOSE LEAD.
Dogs get it after 4/5 goes and then we start work on the walking on the loose lead.
Pulling a dog into a heel position or using choke or prong collars is pointless and useless. For example we see HEEL taught by pulling the dog into a heel position and then saying HEEL. But the verbal cue HEEL is then associated with the dog being pulled back with little or no reinforcer. Hence the handler must ALWAYS give a HEEL + Jerk when walking the dog. What a pain in the ARM!
This is a much better method and it ends up with the dog knowing when to correct themselves, using their brain and enjoying their walks. Plus you don't have a sore shoulder if you own a big yellow lab!
Again you get th behaviour of Loose Lead, mark it with a reward (food treat). Stop for any pull on the lead turning into the hand holding the lead. When the dog CHOOSES to be with you on a loose lead and checks in you reward.
So there is no verbal cue. The cue for the dog to correct ITSELF is the feeling of pressure on collar or harness. It means that you are not pulling your dog into a heel position. The dog is working with you and for you. The dog is HAPPY to walk on a loose lead as the reinforcers are forward movement (the walk) and when learning the food treats (marking the correct position). Also there is little to none luring with food.
Initially you want to teach the dog that the pull means no forward movement so we have a little game.
Hold the dog on the lead.
Throw a piece of food out.
The dog pulls.
Hold but do not pull the dog back.
After a few secs the dog will release on the lead (loose lead) at which point you move forward and the treat + forward movement becomes available ONLY ON LOOSE LEAD.
Dogs get it after 4/5 goes and then we start work on the walking on the loose lead.
Pulling a dog into a heel position or using choke or prong collars is pointless and useless. For example we see HEEL taught by pulling the dog into a heel position and then saying HEEL. But the verbal cue HEEL is then associated with the dog being pulled back with little or no reinforcer. Hence the handler must ALWAYS give a HEEL + Jerk when walking the dog. What a pain in the ARM!
This is a much better method and it ends up with the dog knowing when to correct themselves, using their brain and enjoying their walks. Plus you don't have a sore shoulder if you own a big yellow lab!
TKC
Well-known member