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How to teach new puppy to not bite on my 11 year old cavachon?
- Thread starter Patsyvu
- Start date
You actually won't really be able to teach her not to -- the options are a mix of management, which means just removing your puppy if and when she gets too bite-y and irritating to your adult, and cheerfully redirecting her to acceptable puppy chews and toys and praise her when her attention shifts to those; and second, understanding that this is normal puppy behaviour (though annoying!) which she should grow beyond as she gets to somewhere between 4-6 months or so, and assessing your adult's response. Usually an adult isn't too bothered by gentler puppy nips, and if they are, will let the puppy know if it is too much -- as long as it's a growl or warning snap without contact, that's fine. It's actually the single best way for puppies too learn bite inhibition as human attempts to teach a pup to inhibit bite will never ever be as successful and clear as an adult or other puppies signalling they are hurt or annoyed and avoiding the puppy for a bit. But of course you need to be sure the puppy is always safe as an adult can seriously hurt a puppy. Management and constant watchfulness is important.
Puppies and adults both need safe and quiet and peaceful places to retreat by themselves. For a puppy, a puppy pen (x-pen) is a good investment as it can be used for years. I'd opt for something at least 2.5 feet high so that it also suits penning an adult. These can fold out to block a doorway too and you can separate the pup in one room and the adult nearby so they see each other but cannot interact. Puppies will need a human to gently scoop them up and remove them from an irritating adult sometimes. I believe you got your girl when she was quite young by necessity, and this can mean it takes longer to learn bite inhibition as they were removed from siblings and mum before they were really old enough to absorb those lessons. Generally even very annoyed adults gradually accept a pup as the pup matures.
Here's a good outline of an excellent approach -- just keep in mind these tips all apply with unwanted attention towards other dogs, too, not just managing nips with people
!
Puppies and adults both need safe and quiet and peaceful places to retreat by themselves. For a puppy, a puppy pen (x-pen) is a good investment as it can be used for years. I'd opt for something at least 2.5 feet high so that it also suits penning an adult. These can fold out to block a doorway too and you can separate the pup in one room and the adult nearby so they see each other but cannot interact. Puppies will need a human to gently scoop them up and remove them from an irritating adult sometimes. I believe you got your girl when she was quite young by necessity, and this can mean it takes longer to learn bite inhibition as they were removed from siblings and mum before they were really old enough to absorb those lessons. Generally even very annoyed adults gradually accept a pup as the pup matures.
Here's a good outline of an excellent approach -- just keep in mind these tips all apply with unwanted attention towards other dogs, too, not just managing nips with people
!
Patsyvu
Member
Thank you sooo much for your advice. My pup when she gets “ rambunctious “,begins to terrorize my adult dog…to the point that she latches on to adult dog’s tail and pulls her across the room! Gracie,,the adult, tolerates a lot but puppy’s teeth are sharp! Although I have had many dogs in my life, I feel at times a little inadequate in controlling Bentley! Will check back with you in a few weeks. Maybe by that time she will have calmed down!!! Thanks again for answering my question.
I think that all sounds pretty normal and Gracie sounds very tolerant -- poor girl being dragged across the room!!! 
. If you think Gracie needs bit of a break, just separate as noted. You can generally tell if the adults are getting a bit weary but many quite enjoy all the action!
. If you think Gracie needs bit of a break, just separate as noted. You can generally tell if the adults are getting a bit weary but many quite enjoy all the action!
Patsyvu
Member
My two dogs have gotten into major fights recently over food. I feed them at different times and in different rooms but if a kibble happens to drop between them,a major fight begins. The cav 7 months now is now much larger than my old cav/bichon mix seems to be the agressor. They hoard their treats, toys, etc and will try to steal the other ‘s possessions. Help
Management is still going to be the first productive step here -- meticulously keeping them apart so that there aren't ever any opportunities for random pieces of kibble to end up on the floor (feed them separately then carefully check for random dropped bits of food. Feeding in a crate can remove the concern that kibble has scattered plus you can easily clear any dropped bits out and close the crate door. Toys or treats should be offered inside crates or in two separated areas (eg with a baby gate or closed door).
Just as important: I'd urgently begin doing some training to help avoid food and resource guarding generally, as this sounds like it's escalating into a pattern. This is some of the most important training to do with all dogs, as resource guarding can develop into a serious and risky problem for the humans, not just another dog. It's one of the main reasons dogs are surrendered to shelters. I just helped rehome a cavalier that had developed a resource guarding issue that had resulted in some bites
but this dog is now in an experienced home after he was professionally assessed by a trusted trainer, as having a guarding issue that could be addressed still as thankfully, it wasn't too advanced. But his former home was no loner suitable as small children visited.
I'd start here, right away, with expert Dr Ian Dunbar's advice on resource guarding:
I really like this trainer's website too and over the years have often recommended her advice. Try:
www.diamondsintheruff.com
A good trainer could also help you here and if you want that option, I'd recommend using the CCPDT website https://www.ccpdt.org/ where you can search your area for a qualified trainer if you wish to look for help.
What you're seeing isn't alarmingly abnormal but it is behaviour that must be very carefully managed, especially around an older dog who could be hurt, and addressed with training. What's happening between the dogs could start to be directed towards people, without some work here while it's still a minor squabbling issue. You're at a good point to intervene 1) to prevent these encounters happening at all and 2) to start working with your pup on preventing resource guarding. Hope that helps.
Just as important: I'd urgently begin doing some training to help avoid food and resource guarding generally, as this sounds like it's escalating into a pattern. This is some of the most important training to do with all dogs, as resource guarding can develop into a serious and risky problem for the humans, not just another dog. It's one of the main reasons dogs are surrendered to shelters. I just helped rehome a cavalier that had developed a resource guarding issue that had resulted in some bites
but this dog is now in an experienced home after he was professionally assessed by a trusted trainer, as having a guarding issue that could be addressed still as thankfully, it wasn't too advanced. But his former home was no loner suitable as small children visited.I'd start here, right away, with expert Dr Ian Dunbar's advice on resource guarding:
I really like this trainer's website too and over the years have often recommended her advice. Try:
Resource Guarding | diamondsintheruff
www.diamondsintheruff.com
A good trainer could also help you here and if you want that option, I'd recommend using the CCPDT website https://www.ccpdt.org/ where you can search your area for a qualified trainer if you wish to look for help.
What you're seeing isn't alarmingly abnormal but it is behaviour that must be very carefully managed, especially around an older dog who could be hurt, and addressed with training. What's happening between the dogs could start to be directed towards people, without some work here while it's still a minor squabbling issue. You're at a good point to intervene 1) to prevent these encounters happening at all and 2) to start working with your pup on preventing resource guarding. Hope that helps.
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