Hmmm -- a few things here -- while some of this is indeed the fact that she is an adolescent, a lot of it is -- 1) keeping her busy with appropriate activity/toys (do you use kongs for example?) and 2) management and 3) training. No 7 momtn old is going to have good recall and that cannot be relied on to save her life if a door is left open. If you have a 'bolter' -- and lots of dogs bolt -- you need to figure out a safer arrangement for the possibility of doors being left open. Latches that an adult must open if there are young kids opening things. doors closed to hallways; babygates -- and training.
Training takes hours and hours and hours of positive approach work and then reinforcement/ practice. Recall generally is a long and slow process. A dog that doesn;t return is NOT at fault -- the issue is generally a combo of the fact that that we as owners have not found a way to adequately or properly train and reinforce (eg practice every opportunity throughout the house every day -- call dog, reward; call dog, reward, worked into all sorts of fund short activities, for example) and just the dog's young age.
Have you downloaded Ian Dunbar's free book? I am sure I offered the link in a previous thread. He addresses all these points as well as what to expect at her age (which is all the things you are describing). You can read there about all sorts of ways to address her boredom (which is party why she is chewing things -- she needs things to do) and her absolutely normal and *necessary* need to chew (she isn't 'destroying' everything, really; she is seeking things she desperately needs to chew on at this age to develop teeth and jaws and will be happy to get anything left lying around if not provided with safe and appropriate alternative chew toys.
Most of us have lost a shoe or two to dogs this age -- or specs, clothing, edges of furnoture, skirting boards etc. But again this is a management issue for the responsible human, not something a dog can resolve. She is likely to remain like this until around a year old and some dogs will *always* be like this (I have one dog that is extremely bright and needs activity/occupation all the time. There is no way to change this personality).
In short the rule of thumb is to never leave anything in reach of a dog, ever, that you are not happy risking may be destroyed because dogs chew as a normal activity. They do not differentiate between a rawhide chew and a shoe.
You need to dog proof a house (both to keep the dog safe and your valuables safe) the same way a responsible adult toddler-proofs a house. Owning a dog is like having a toddler loose for the lifetime of that dog.
Expecting a 7 month old puppy to come back on recall is like expecting a toddler to follow complex directions -- good recall really only starts to come, with many months of careful training and practice, generally after age 1 (adulthood) as dogs her age lack focus. A training class (not one with 'corrections' but one using positive methods) is very productive at this age and indeed this is a critical training age -- you loose the opportunity to get a dog started towards being a self controlled adult by NOT doing training and every dog and owner benefits from group classes where the dog learns to focus despite distractions and gets to safely socialise. People who train mostly at home typically find their dog only responds when in quiet situations with no distractions -- in other words, nothing like real life situations!
As they reach this age, they also do not need to sleep all the time like very young puppies did and you'll need to either keep her busy interacting with her or find some great toys etc. That is unlikely to change much!
On running two miles with a cavalier -- to be honest that isn't usually the best thing to do with a brachycephalic (short faced) breed and cavaliers are not really a jogging breed; vets advise not running any dog of any breed hard this anyway til well over a year as this can damage their still-developing joints (which is why agility teachers generally will not allow dogs to start agility training til they are at least a year old to 18 months and that's a lot less grueling than jogging). Cavaliers do tend to breathe less efficiently and can end up with heatstroke or collapsing from inability to get enough oxygen if run continuously for such long distances as well (eg they are not really jogging companion dogs). They will of course eagerly keep up with you but that isn't an adequate way of judging whether the dog is able for this -- and really you'd want to wait til she is at least a year old before running those lengths anyway (with an OK from your vet that her breathing can handle it).
For example this advice from one trainer might be helpful
:
EXERCISE IS EXCELLENT. A tired puppy is a GOOD puppy. Forced exercise (running, jogging, conditioning) should be left until after 18 months of age and preliminary hip and elbow exrays, but your puppy needs plenty of time to play and be active. Fresh air and outdoor fun is very important for a young growing puppy. Go for short casual neighborhood walks. Toss toys for him using the retractable lead. Have several of the same toy, and teach the pup to come back and play "trade" for what he has in his mouth. You can also trade for treats. Don't reach out to the dog, or try to take anything out of his mouth. Instead, offer him another toy or a treat to trade. Hold the article you are trading close to your body so the dog has to come all the way in. Make a point of touching the collar each time you trade. Each time he releases an object to you, say "OUT." This is a marvelous exercise that teaches the retrieve, the release, helps with the recall, puts you in a leadership position, and is great fun and exercise for the pup. Once he is coming back reliably, you can reduce your useage of the lead if you are working in a safe fenced area. Keep in mind, working on a leash or a line gives you an immediate way to help your pup make the right choices.
Also this link on running with dogs:
Breed considerations:
Keep your dog's breed in mind when planning your exercise routine. Small dogs with short legs usually don't need to ... or should not ...be walked or jogged as long as larger dogs.
Breeds with short noses may have trouble breathing when exercised vigorously. Short-snouters range from little pugs to bulldogs to boxers and many others.
And don't assume that racing breeds such as Greyhounds and whippets can run marathons. While they are built to run, they were not breed to run for long distances.
And for young pups and big breeds of any age, sustained jogging or running is too hard on their joints.
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_JogDog.php
and
Always remember your dog’s limitations – and remember that dogs will always try to please you, even at the detriment of their own health so don’t inadvertently force him to do anything he struggles with. Some breeds are simply not designed for sustained exercise, such as the brachycephalic breeds (e.g. bulldogs and pugs) with their shortened muzzles.
NEVER run with a puppy or a young dog whose limbs might still be growing – you can cause serious damage to his joints and bones which may not be reversible. Most dogs should not engage in forced exercise until over 1 year of age and for giant breeds, which mature more slowly, this may be even later. Consult your vet and your breeder for the best time to start exercising with your pet.
and lots more helpful advice on running with dogs at
http://www.saferpets.co.uk/safe-jogging-with-your-dog.html